Colorado Explorer

Destination: Pagosa Springs

Pagosa Springs

By Linda DuVal

Two teenaged boys scamper down the rocky trail from the Pagosa Hot Springs pools to the San Juan River below. They skip from rock to rock, looking for a place to jump in. One hovers, then leaps into the water—and promptly shoots to the surface, hollering. He picked a cold spot!

One of the great options at Pagosa Hot Springs is being able to choose from a variety of temperatures for your daily soak, or exploring the river with its hot and cold spots and lots of rocks for walking across.

Although the hot springs are a major attraction here, they're by no means the only one. You also can fish, hike, bike, play golf, ride in a hot air balloon or on horseback, and even visit ancient archaeological sites.

Chimney Rock Archaeological Area is open May through September for guided tours of a fascinating ancient dwelling place and unique rock formation.

If you want to be outdoors, hike to one of the area's 25 scenic waterfalls, or visit the Rocky Mountain Wildlife Park, a place where you can view and photograph captive native wildlife. If you don't mind spending part of the day indoors, stop by the Upper San Juan Historical Museum to get an idea of the local geology and history. Or browse the local shops, which lean heavily toward antiques and art galleries. Even if you're too young to remember Red Ryder—the hugely popular cowboy comic that ran from the '30s until 1964, and spawned 38 movies—you'll still get a kick out of the Fred Harman Museum, where the late artist's work can be examined and enjoyed. The Western paintings, cartoon strips and other memorabilia of this native son are on display. You even get to see his studio.

If you visit in winter, there are many activities just begging to be enjoyed, from snowshoeing and snowmobiling local trails to downhill skiing at nearby Wolf Creek Ski Area.

Pagosa Springs offers a wide array of places to stay, from historic lodgings in town to newer (and some golf-oriented) properties on the western edge. There are a number of eateries: barbecue, Mexican, Italian, and lots of burgers and steaks. Try JJ's Riverwalk—the food is hit-or-miss, but the real draw is that the restaurant sits right on the lovely San Juan River.

After dinner, you always can go back and soak in the hot springs again. Feel your body relax as you watch the stars come out. It's almost guaranteed to give you a great night's sleep. For information on visiting Pagosa Springs, call 800-252-2204 or visit www.pagosaspringschamber.com.

Linda DuVal is former travel editor of The Gazette in Colorado Springs and a freelance writer.