Mini Tour

Ski Train

All Aboard

The Rio Grande Ski Train takes riders to the slopes in style

By Janna Graber

You know the routine. You're out of state, someone asks where you're from, and then you wait for the response: "Oh, you're from Colorado?" they gush. "You must be a skier!"

Of course, not all of us ski. But the sport certainly is a part of life in the Centennial State, and skiers here take two forms. The first type waits eagerly for the first snowflake to fall. They buy a season ticket and check the snowfall reports with religious frequency. They're on the slopes, come blizzard or freezing cold, and nothing is going to stop them.

Then there are the rest of us. We have the best of intentions, mind you. We promise to spend more time on the slopes each year. But then... there is the traffic.

If you live on the Front Range and drive westbound I-70 in the early morning, then you know exactly what I mean. There are just too many of us heading up to enjoy all that powdery goodness. Maybe I'm getting old, but waiting in a line of cars is not my idea of fun.

This is why I'm a fan of the Rio Grande Ski Train.

The train has been transporting skiers from Denver to Winter Park Resort since 1940. Winter Park Resort is the oldest continually operated ski resort in Colorado, and it's a true favorite with Front Range skiers.

Like many Coloradans, Winter Park is where I learned to ski, and it's where my own children learned as well. (Granted, I learned the cheap way: "Put your skis in a wedge and head down the hill," while my children took part in Winter Park's excellent ski school.) Winter Park Resort is the third largest resort in Colorado, and includes four mountains: Winter Park, Mary Jane, Vasquez Cirque and Vasquez Ridge. An intricate series of lifts and trails connects the whole thing.

This means, of course, that there are more trails than you can ever ski in one day, which is why you'll go back again and again. The Ski Train is the most civilized way to get there.

The Ski Train calls itself "a Denver tradition for generations," and many have memories of riding the train as a kid. In the 1950s and '60s, the train was popular with members of the Eskimo Ski Club, young kids from Denver who were passionate about being on the slopes. But by the '80s, the train had fallen onto hard times. The 1915-vintage rail cars were beginning to look old and dingy. It was time for something new.

That new outlook came when Ansco Investment Co. took over. The antique cars were sold (they are now in California, used in the Napa Valley Wine Train) and replaced by the present cars. Ridership doubled, then tripled. Today the Ski Train often sells out.

Hop the train at historic Union Station in downtown Denver. Our offspring grumbled at the early hour and bitter cold as we set out one winter morning (boarding starts at 6:30 a.m.), but I saw a spark of interest escape their half-open eyes as we climbed aboard the train.

By the time the cars pulled out at 7:15 a.m., we were all cozily buried in our seats and the train began to warm. The tracks offered a whole new view of Denver. Soon we were pressing our noses to the glass as we wound our way through Arvada and Wheat Ridge, sailed past the Flatirons and into Boulder Canyon.

By this time, all family members were awake and accounted for. We bought some hot chocolate and croissants from the café car, and then sat back to enjoy the two-hour scenic ride.

The kids counted 27 tunnels along our journey, including the historic 6.2 mile long Moffat Tunnel under the Continental Divide. Since the train treks where no car has gone before, we found ourselves viewing stunning alpine vistas—a part of Colorado even our local eyes had never seen.

Weather conditions do not usually affect the Ski Train. In fact, during a bad storm, the train may be the only transportation that gets through to Winter Park. Since the Ski Train shares the Union Pacific Railroad track with freight trains, there are occasional delays. But our ride sailed through without a hitch.

There are no stops along the way to delay your arrival, and the trip ends literally feet from the ski slopes. No schlepping skis all the way from the parking lot—just step off the train and onto the lifts.

By the time we arrived in Winter Park, we were rested and ready to hit the slopes. And we felt all the more carefree knowing that the train would be waiting for us to return at 4:15 pm. Better yet, we would zoom past all that traffic on our relaxing train trip home.

Now that's what I call a sweet ride.

Colorado native Janna Graber is a freelance writer, editor and mother of three.

If You Go

Advanced reservations are recommended, as seats often sell out. Tickets can be purchased online at www.skitrain.com or by calling 303-296-4754. All tickets are roundtrip and you must return the same day. Coach fares start at $44 per person. Club fares are $74 per person, providing larger seats, a continental breakfast buffet, and snacks and beverages on the ride home.

If you've already purchased your ticket, you can proceed directly to the train. Car and seat number are printed on your ticket. You can stow your skis, bags and other items (no large coolers, though) in the train's storage areas and ski racks.

Paid parking is available at numerous lots surrounding Union Station, which is located at 17th & Wynkoop St. in downtown Denver. The "C-Line" light rail stops at Union Station.

The Rio Grande Ski Train also runs during the summer, offering hikers, mountain bikers and other sightseers a beautiful ride to Winter Park.