Colorado Explorer

Photo by City of Cripple Creek

Colorado Explorer: Cripple Creek

By Linda DuVal

The 1890s Gold Rush boomtown of Cripple Creek, southwest of Pikes Peak, had nearly become a ghost town by the mid-20th century. Weekend visitors would meander up Ute Pass to the funky shops, odd little restaurants or, in summer, the melodrama.

Then came the advent of limited stakes gaming in the 1990s—a second "gold rush" that brought visitors swarming into the historic district to try their hand at slot machines and poker.

Many who loved the town's quirky, laid-back nature were put off by all the lights and bells. Now, however, Cripple Creek is experiencing a renaissance as a heritage destination. With the opening of the Pikes Peak Heritage Center and the Jail Museum, there is a full day, or even weekend, of fun to be had without ever entering a casino.

The heritage center should be your first stop. It affords a spectacular view of the town below and mountains beyond, along with clever and clearly presented exhibits. The helpful staff can tell you when the melodrama is playing, which restaurants cater to kids and where to find overnight accommodations. If you don't want to try parking in town, leave your car here and take the free shuttle.

The shuttle will take you right downtown to the new Jail Museum, the converted Teller County Jail. With enthusiastic tour guides, you'll see tiny cells that once held up to eight men (hammocks were slung from hooks for sleeping) and bright murals depicting the town's more colorful moments.

If you've never been to a melodrama, well... Hiss! Boo! The Butte Opera House is just the place to cross that off your list of things to do. Never been down a real gold mine? Take the tour at the Mollie Kathleen Mine.

The Cripple Creek & Victor Museum is like Grandma's attic, packed full of antiques and treasures collected from the area. And stop by the Homestead House to see how the ladies of the evening once contributed to the town's economy and welfare.

In summer, ride the Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad to see how early travelers fared. Maybe plan your visit around one of the town's special events, such as Donkey Derby Days (June 27-29), when the local wild burros are rounded up and ridden (sort of) by hearty and sometimes foolish folks who love to make spectacles of themselves. There are plenty of dining options, from pizza and bar food to steaks and upscale cuisine. Lodging ranges from historic bed-and-breakfast inns and hotels to modern chains. Some of the older inns even claim a ghost or two. For information on visiting Cripple Creek, call 877-858-4653 or go to www.visitcripplecreek.com.

Linda DuVal is former travel editor of The Gazette in Colorado Springs and a freelance writer.