All-natural Costa Rica

By Michael DeFreitas

The squawks of lilac-crowned parrots echoed through the verdant rainforest canopy as we made our way to the zip-line starting point in Costa Rica's Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. The short trail weaved around 100-foot-high ceiba trees and their enormous buttressed roots. It was a bit difficult walking in our harnesses, but no one complained.

Our walk ended at a giant ceiba tree overlooking a spectacular cloud forest ravine. Ten feet up, a sturdy metal platform wrapped around the tree's massive trunk. A thick steel cable stretched to another platform on the far side of the ravine.

After donning safety helmets and gloves, we climbed up to the platform. I led the way, followed by my teenage sons Chris and Phil, and Barbara and Marilyn, a couple of 70-year-old-plus grandmothers from Vancouver. The view was even more incredible from the platform, but my heartbeat quickened as I traced the sagging arc of the cable stretching across the ravine. I'm not so much afraid of heights as I am of hitting the ground from 100 feet up.

Concerned that my feet might not leave the platform willingly, I instructed our guide to give me a three-count and then push. I heard the boys chuckling behind me as I gripped the zip strap. The guide started to count. "Uno!"

Then leaves and branches were flashing past in a green blur. Warm air rushed across my face—it felt like I was swinging and falling at the same time. Before I could figure out what happened to "Dos" and "Tres" I shot into the arms of a way-too-cheerful guide on the far platform.

"Okay?" he beamed. I croaked, "Oh … kay," my knees still shaking a bit as I moved to the far side of the platform. Of course, the boys and the feisty septuagenarians whooped it up as they shot across the ravine. Showoffs.

However, by day's end, I was almost out-whooping the boys. The course had 17 zip lines and a series of suspended walkways stretched between the treetops. The lofty catwalks were ideal for exploring the seldom-seen forest canopy. Along the way, our knowledgeable guides provided detailed information about Costa Rica's cloud forest ecosystem. Phil spotted a slow-moving two-toed sloth carrying her baby on her stomach and Chris pointed out some playful spider monkeys dangling from the branches by their spindly tails.

There is nothing artificial about Costa Rica. That's why this tiny oasis of lush rainforests and spectacular beaches is quickly becoming a popular family vacation destination.

While we were off doing our Tarzan zip-lining thing, my wife Kay, a horse lover, went for a half-day horseback ride to the La Fortuna waterfalls near the active Arenal Volcano. After her ride she spent the afternoon soaking in the Tabacon Hot Springs, followed by some hot-rock pampering in the spa. I'm not sure which she enjoyed more—the relaxing spa or not having to deal with all that testosterone for the day. Either way, she seemed quite contented at dinner that night.

Eco-balanced tourism

Zip-lining is only one of the many exciting activities awaiting you in Costa Rica. Despite its compact size (a little smaller than Maine), Costa Rica is one of the most biologically diverse countries on the planet. With panoramas of steaming volcanoes, lush rainforests and bucolic countryside wedged between stunning beaches along its Caribbean and Pacific coasts, the country is a comfortable and family-friendly destination.

Over the years, the Costa Rican government has helped to establish a wide range of eco-friendly tours and attractions to make it easier for visitors to interact with the natural world. On our zip-line adventure, a narrow, unobtrusive dirt access road allowed the bus to drop us off within 500 yards of the first platform. Before the road was built, zip-lining required a two-hour hike into the park. There's still plenty of "rough it" country left, allowing a smorgasbord of exciting eco-experiences to suit all interests and budgets.

Tourist dollars play an important role in the country's economy, but most Ticos (Costa Ricans) are wary of overdevelopment and favor a balanced approach to tourism. Instead of mega-resort areas, smaller and relatively inexpensive hotels are constructed all over the country. This mindful approach has led to more personable properties with a minimal impact on their surroundings, opening up previously inaccessible regions to eco-friendly visitors.

Other distractions

Besides zip-lining, there are dozens of other outdoor distractions, from aerial tram rides through the rainforest canopy overlooking Braulio Carrillo National Park to leisurely hikes in the Carara Biological Rainforest Reserve. Here you will have your best chance to see the resplendent quetzal, a threatened bird.

Phil loved our half-day raft float down the Corobici River. Not only were the Class II rapids exciting, but he also got to take plenty of wildlife photos with his new digital camera—including white-faced monkeys dangling from branches over the river and a rare blue-and-gold macaw.

Chris's most memorable moment was watching a nearly Volkswagen-sized leatherback turtle laying eggs on Las Baulas Beach near Tamarindo. For a pet turtle owner, this was a real treat—especially since these massive creatures only come ashore once every two years. Accompanied by guides using special red lights (to let us see in the dark without bothering the turtles), we watched quietly as she struggled to drag her 1,400-pound teardrop-shaped carapace up through the soft sand to the high water mark and lay her eggs. Families can volunteer to help researchers monitor the nesting habits of other marine turtles on Playa Grande and in Tortuguero National Park.

A capital idea

Most visitors arrive in the country's lively cosmopolitan capital, San Jose. It's a relatively new city (it became the capital in 1823) with a population of 1.3 million and a more North American feel than many other Latin American cities. Located in the beautiful Central Valley surrounded by lush green volcanic mountains, it's one of the most picturesque locations in Latin America.

There is lots to do in and around San Jose. The colorful local arts and crafts markets sprinkled around the city overflow with bargains. Between shopping forays, you can grab a cup of Costa Rica's world famous coffee at one of the city's many intimate sidewalk cafés. Costa Rica's premier coffee company, Café Britt, offers informative plantation tours, 20 minutes from downtown.

The city is also home to a number of museums, including the Museo de Jade, with the world's largest collection of American jade art. Garden enthusiasts will enjoy the Paraíso de Cartago botanical garden with its 800 species of orchids.

In the older nearby towns of Cartago, Heredia and Barva, history buffs and bargain hunters can check out local handicraft shops in the 300-year-old buildings that line the cobblestone streets.

Yours to explore

To get the most out of your Costa Rican adventure, you really need to explore as much of the countryside as possible. You can easily explore on your own or book one of the many tours available. When you're done, just hang out on a hammock under the swaying palms on Playa Conchal or Manzanillo and do absolutely nothing. The choices are endless.

With its raw beauty and its sincere and gracious people, all-natural Costa Rica is a refreshing option for sun-and-fun seekers of all ages. So why not zip down there for your next family adventure?

Michael DeFreitas is a Canadian travel writer and photographer who specializes in active travel.

If you go

Costa Rica has had a stable democracy for more than 100 years and hasn't had an army since 1948. The country has low crime rates, little or no poverty, one of the highest literacy rates in the world and one of the highest standards of living in Latin America. As anywhere, use your common sense when it comes to valuables.

Mosquito repellent is advisable, but there is virtually no risk of malaria or dengue fever in major cities or on day excursions into the rainforest. The odd case occurs in remote areas, so if you are planning a prolonged stay in a remote rainforest region, you may want to consult your local medical travel clinic.

Spanish is the official language, but English is widely spoken. The currency is the colón. At the time of writing, the exchange rate was approximately US$1 to 500 colones. A valid passport and return air ticket are required for entry. For more information, contact Costa Rica Tourism, 800-343-6332, www.visitcostarica.com or your travel agent.