Colorado Explorer

Brecknridge turns 150

By Linda DuVal

The town of Breckenridge, high in the Rockies, has evolved from a wild and woolly mining camp of the mid-1800s to one of the more charming ski towns of the 21st century.

But it hasn't forgotten its roots. Take a guided (or self-guided) tour of the town and you'll see its rich history has been well preserved.

Linda Kay Peterson is a frequent guide to the town's past. Dressed in Victorian garb, she volunteers out of the Welcome Center, which includes a museum and lots of good information on where to stay, dine and shop in town. Peterson talks about the gold that was discovered here, the bust that followed and the "white gold"—fine powder skiing—that finally resurrected the village, as it did many others in Colorado.

"There was a clear dichotomy between how the miners lived and how the Easterners with money, trying to replicate their Victorian lifestyle, lived," she says as she points out various landmarks. The Barney Ford House, for example, was home to Colorado's first African-American legislator. Born a slave in Virginia, he moved to Colorado where, with his wife, he opened a successful café and eventually got into politics.

Another local favorite tale is the story of Father Dyer, the itinerant preacher who traversed the area on snowshoes, bringing religion to the miners and helping them in practical ways, too. A small church dedicated to him is filled every Sunday.

There are plenty of places to stay, from cute little bed-and-breakfast inns to lofty mountainside lodges. Dining has always been one of the town's strong suits, from the long-time favorite Hearthstone Restaurant (everything from elk in a blackberry demi-glace to ginger sea scallops) and homey favorites like Fatty's (great pizza) to hot newbies like Relish. Choices range from Thai to Mexican to seafood.

Breckenridge is one of the prettiest towns in the state with its lovingly restored Victorian buildings in bright colors. In summer, window boxes and flower beds are loaded with blossoms, and in fall the colors on nearby Hoosier Pass are spectacular.

The Blue River runs through it, with the terrific Riverwalk events center alongside, where music reigns year round.

This year Breckenridge celebrates its 150th birthday with special events, starting with a historically themed Ullr Fest (Jan. 4-9) and International Snow Sculpture Championships (Jan. 20-25). It will continue through Kingdom Days (June 20-21) and peak during the Breck 150 Anniversary Weekend (Aug. 7-10). For more information go to www.breck150.com or call 877-593-5260.

Linda DuVal is a freelance writer and former travel editor for The Gazette in Colorado Springs.