Outback New Mexico

Taos tempts outdoor enthusiasts with ballooning, biking, llama trekking and more.
By Lainey R. Seyler

> Western sunset
> Four-legged friends
> Hikes and bikes
> Planning your trip

Up before dawn, my tour group drove gravel roads to the middle of a rocky field of low-lying sage. The sun peeked over the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, washing away the shadow of the ridge. We laid the nylon tarp across the ground, turned on a giant fan, and watched the balloon fill and rise. Five of us jumped into the basket just before someone released the hot-air balloon from its stakes.

Without the ground for friction, flying in the balloon was just like one of those floating dreams. A bird's-eye view of the valley revealed a steep gorge in the Taos Mesa gouged by the Rio Grande River. The pilot directed the balloon into the steep canyon below the plateau before returning up top for a landing.

New Mexico loves its balloons. They are on the license plate, after all. And come summer, the balloons become a semi-permanent part of Taos' morning horizon, adding ballooning to the long list of activities to do outside.

Western sunset

Taos is the quintessential picture of the Southwest: a dry valley surrounded by mountains, smelling of lavender and sage, and filled with stucco buildings. It has become synonymous for sites that attract the artsy type, beginning with the Taos Art Colony at the turn of the 20th century and later welcoming such notables as Ansel Adams, Georgia O'Keeffe and D.H. Lawrence. Doubtless attracted to the northern New Mexico area for its landscape, artists and other outdoor enthusiasts looking to revel en plein air are still coming in equal numbers today.

©Taos Chamber Jill Caven

Outfitters run white-water rafting trips through various portions of the Rio Grande, ranging from serene rolls down the river to intense Class IV maneuvers. The Taos Box, running straight through the deepest part of the gorge, is the most difficult portion of the river. Guides lead groups through this natural waterpark, sharing anecdotes and pointing out flora and fauna. And the easy Orilla Verde portion of the river allows for plenty of swimming.

Four-legged friends

Taos is bordered on three sides by government-protected parks: Carson National Forest; Taos Pueblo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; and Wheeler Peak Wilderness Area, which marks the highest point in the state. Summits on Wheeler's slopes afford views of the Sangre de Cristos, reflecting red in the waning afternoon sun.

Some think the only proper way to experience the West is on horseback, and for those looking to travel in true cowboy fashion, there are a number of stables in the area. With horseback riding, the horse does the work (or most of it), and the animals are so familiar with the trails that they could walk them by moonlight. Lajitas Stables has Wheeler Peak Wilderness Area excursions of varying length geared toward all members of the family.

Wild Earth Llama Adventures teams visitors with the Andean pack animals for tours of the Rockies. The family-run operation takes groups into the New Mexican wilderness for daylong and multiday excursions. It's backcountry trekking made easy, with the reputedly friendly llamas hauling the heavy stuff. Wild Earth takes trekkers to the Wheeler Peak, Columbine/Hondo and Latir wilderness areas and to the Rio Grande Gorge, getting visitors deep into the heart of New Mexico.

Hikes and bikes

Taos Ski Valley, adjacent to Wheeler, is the base for excursions up the peak. Family-owned and operated, the ski resort is known for its challenging runs in winter and long-held traditions. For Coloradans looking for a change of scene, it's a close and economical alternative to our own ski towns. With 300-some days of sun, nothing could be more tempting than hitting the slopes.

But the lifts are also open during the summer, with hiking shortcuts to the peaks. Because the area is replete with alpine lakes, wildflowers and wildlife, this is a great place to be outdoors.

Going on two wheels is another outdoor adventure alternative. Mountain biking is an obvious option, but the area also has some scenic road rides. There's the popular 18-mile ride from town to the Taos Ski Valley, the Wild Rivers Recreation Area to the northwest and Angel Fire to the west. Bicycle outfitter Sherry Koch, co-owner of Taos' Gearing Up Bicycle Shop, said, "We have a lot of people we send (to the Wild Rivers Recreation Area) to hike and bike, and they say that's just the highlight of their trip."

There are spectacular views from the top of the mesa at Wild Rivers and a six-mile biking trail, which is really good and smooth according to Koch, as well as trails down to the convergence of the Rio Grande and Red rivers. The Enchanted Circle is an 84-mile tour that loops from Taos to Red River to Eagle Nest and back.

Angel Fire functions as a ski resort in the winter and an extreme sports epicenter in the summer, even hosting the mountain biking World Cup. Visitors can race the black-diamond-rated trails just like the pros, and bikes can be loaded onto the chairlift going to the mountaintop and ridden back down, thus eliminating excruciating uphill climbs. The resort also offers hiking, fishing, horseback riding, rafting and all-terrain vehicles for rent. In Taos, the only thing that could stand in the way of a memorable vacation is a rainy day.

Planning your trip

For information, call 800-816-1516 or visit www.taosvisitor.com. To plan your own New Mexico getaway, contact a AAA travel agent or www.AAA.com/travel.

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