Arts and culture in San Antonio

Art lovers will find a bounty of venues to choose from in this historic Texas town.
By Lainey R. Seyler

> A new institution
> Up in lights
> Where to eat
> Cultural meanderings
> Planning your trip
San Antonio River Walk, courtesy of Al Rendon/SACVB

For those walking from the San Fernando Cathedral toward Market Square after dark, the bright pink facade of the Museo Alameda appears to have its corners on the pulse of San Antonio. The museum is fronted by a huge stainless steel and aluminum luminaria, whose intricately rendered holes reflect a choreographed light show nightly on the hour. The Andy Benavidez-designed art installation is also accompanied by a musical collage. San Antonio is clearly a city experienced in sound and color. Primarily known for the Alamo, the River Walk and major sporting events, the Texas metropolis also offers visitors great art venues to add to their itinerary.

A new institution

In April 2007, the city celebrated the opening of the Museo Alameda, an affiliate Smithsonian Institution museum dedicated to Latino culture throughout the Americas. It is the nation's largest Latino museum, with 11 galleries and 20,000 square feet of exhibit space.

The opening was celebrated with typical San Antonio spirit: dancers in traditional costumes and a record-breaking number of mariachi players parading through the streets. The museum inhabits a historical building located at Market Square, a site once famous for the women who sold homemade chili there. Today, Market Square is a shopping center for souvenirs and good Tex-Mex food.

Hosting a mix of traveling exhibitions from the Smithsonian and museum-created or sponsored exhibitions, the Museo Alameda has only one permanent exhibition. "Botanica," a fanciful Mexican pharmacy/community gathering place created by Franco Mondini-Ruiz, is installed in the Regalos Gift Shop (also designed by Mondini-Ruiz) where its unusual blend of saint-emblazoned candles, iconic pieces and herbs are mirrored by the kitschy souvenirs for sale.

Museo Alameda, courtesy of San Antonio CVB

Up in lights

The museum's development was inspired by the Alameda Theater. Only a few blocks from the Museo Alameda, this theater is credited with bringing San Antonio's Hispanic community together for films and vaudeville productions, starting in 1949. The theater was once a grand movie palace. A mural that glows under black light decorates its walls and ceiling.

Renovation and refurbishment are under way, and soon the Alameda will again host theater, music, dance and film. Henry R. Munoz III, chairman of the campaign to restore the theater, hopes the museum and theater will continue to bring the people of San Antonio together. "In a city like San Antonio, people need to sit next to each other to understand each other," he said.

Where to eat

While enjoying San Antonio's artistic endeavors, visitors can indulge in one of its other cultural offerings-food-at a range of eateries recommended by locals.

"We eat something Mexican every week, like La Fonda on Main, Paloma Blanca, Rosario's in Southtown, Panchitos or Taco Taco," said Laurie Pomerantz. Vanessa Centento, an artist at Garcia Art Glass in Southtown, said she prefers seafood joints such as Cado de Pescado or J. Anthony's Seafood. The River Walk is crowded with dining options, but Boudro's is a standout. With fresh ingredients and innovative takes on Southwestern classics, the bistro is always crowded. Seating is available inside, in case of intense Texas heat, or on the river-front patio.

Chef Andrew Weissman returned to hometown San Antonio after stints at noteworthy restaurants in New York and France and opened Le Reve to rave reviews and nationwide media attention. Serving a prix fixe menu, this restaurant should be reserved for special occasions.

But the budget-conscious traveler need not despair. Weissman also has affordable dining options at Sandbar and Big'z Burger Joint. Sandbar serves seafood in a casual atmosphere. Big'z has "this new thing-instead of ketchup or mustard, they have these dipping sauces for homemade chips and French fries," said local tour guide Sissie Henges. "So we can have Andrew Weissman on all levels."

McNay Museum, courtesy of San Antonio CVB

Cultural meanderings

Many venues in San Antonio are already well-established in the national artscape. The San Antonio Museum of Art holds a vast collection, from ancient Greek and Roman artifacts to Latin American folk art. Always expanding, the museum recently added the Lenora and Walter F. Brown Asian Art Wing and reinstalled a growing contemporary collection.

The McNay Museum houses a permanent collection of more than 2,000 rare books, an assortment of theater sets and costume designs, and works by Picasso, Renoir, Gauguin and Edward Hopper, among other notables. The site was once the private home of Marion Koogler McNay, an area resident who donated her home, property and extensive art collection to the city.

Southtown and the neighboring King William District, alcoves for artists, are tucked away from the crowds that populate the city's tourist-heavy River Walk. Anchored by the Blue Star Art Complex (warehouses converted to arts-oriented venues) the historical neighborhoods located just a few miles from downtown are lined with boutiques, cafes, studios and Tex-Mex hot spots.

A stroll down South Alamo and adjacent avenues in Southtown leads past gallery after cafe after boutique. Home to studios and havens for the performing arts, the area offers visitors a chance to immerse themselves in the scene. Artpace, in downtown San Antonio, acts as a museum for contemporary art, although it is not a collecting institution. The studio took over the former Hudson automobile dealership and now invites nine artists a year to its residency program.

It's easy to see art has become as much a part of the city as San Antonio's more long-standing, well-known attractions such as the Alamo.

Planning your trip

For more information, call 800-447-3372 or log on to www.visitsanantonio.com. For trip-planning assistance, contact a AAA travel agent or www.AAA.com/travel.

AAA Travel Connection

Book a Hotel Reservation
Book a Cruise
Book Airfare
Search AAA TourBook