Mini Tour:

Back road beauty

Alamosa to Pagosa Springs
By Jeff Miller

> If you go

Colorado is blessed with more than its fair share of scenic byways that make travelers say "Wow!" at nearly every turn. There are, however, many lesser-known Colorado back roads that offer nearly comparable experiences. The difference is between an outright "Wow" and softer sighs of wonder. With these back roads, second best is still award-winning.

One good example is the back road from Alamosa to Pagosa Springs. Most people travel the scenic and more direct U.S. 160 over Wolf Creek Pass, but for those with a bit of Robert Frost in them, the 130-mile route on U.S. 285, State Highway 17 and U.S. 84 is worth every extra mile and minute. Bookended by two very different towns, this route offers two mountain passes, a memorable steam-powered train, intriguing histories of three cultures, and the opportunity to soak in one of the world's finest hot springs.

The beginning of this road trip lies in the 7,500-foot-high San Luis Valley, one of the world's largest alpine valleys. While it's Colorado's only true desert (as determined by rainfall), the valley sits on a huge aquifer and is nourished by the Rio Grande.

Wildlife and humans have been making the valley their home for eons. Every year in March and September, 20,000 sandhill cranes make a migration stop in the Monte Vista National Wildlife Refuge, about 20 miles from Alamosa. The Utes, Navajo and Apache made the valley their home for more than 4,000 years, and in the 1500s Spanish explorers arrived from Mexico to establish their most northern outpost in America. By the 1800s, ranching and agriculture were the region's life blood.

Today, Alamosa is the largest town in the valley—more regional supply center than tourist town. Spreading out from the southern bank of the Rio Grande, the town's tree-lined residential streets and small commercial center offer a laid back style and strong sense of community.

For visitors, the town offers a good Welcome Center, numerous accommodations and plenty of eating options (try the San Luis Valley Brewing Company or Milagros Coffee House). In Cole Park you can see the 1883 locomotive #169, one of the fastest narrow gauge engines ever built. For a more direct experience, Alamosa has the Rio Grande Scenic Railroad, which offers passenger excursions east over La Veta Pass and southwest to Antonito (to connect with the better-known Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad).

You'll follow the train southwest as you head out of town on U.S. 285 on the first leg of this road trip. The road runs as straight as an Apache arrow through the flat valley floor's underwhelming agriculture splendor. You can see why the Spanish used it as an easy route into the region. Just before Antonito, a short detour at Conejos will bring you to Our Lady of Guadalupe Catholic Church, in the oldest parish in Colorado (although the church itself isn't as old).

At Antonito—where standard gauge train tracks meet narrow gauge-the main attraction is the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad. The 64-mile, narrow-gauge steam railroad has been chugging over Cumbres Pass for more than 125 years. Built in 1880 to serve silver mining, it's America's longest and highest narrow gauge railroad. Preservationists saved the most scenic portion, which began carrying tourists in 1971 between Antonito and Chama, New Mexico. (In 2009 the season runs through October 18.)

Antonito is also where you turn west onto State Highway 17. Now you've joined part of the Los Caminos Antiguos Scenic and Historic Byway, which follows many of the ancient roads through the San Luis Valley. This part of the byway offers rich and varied terrain.

With the Conejos River babbling away on the left, and rugged cliffs standing silently on the right, the road settles gently into the landscape. Conejos Canyon offers stunning views before the road breaks into a lush valley of tall pines, reflective ponds, huge groves of aspens and a scattering of homesteads.

Cresting the first mountain pass (La Manga, 10,230 feet), the road comes around a bend and another impressive valley spreads out below. A large overlook has four interpretative panels that describe the history of the road and state: "Like the first prehistoric inhabitants, you too are a caminante, or one who walks upon the land."

While it's true that many have come before you, it's also nice to think you're seeing a view few modern-day Coloradans have seen. Not far from the overlook the road starts climbing to its next mountain pass-Cumbres Pass at 10,022 feet. The buildings at the top are part of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad National Historic Site. If you time your trip right, you'll get numerous opportunities to see the steam locomotive puffing along the route.

The train's destination-Chama, New Mexico—is where you're heading as well. The fly-speck of a town consists of a string of shops on one side of the road and the railway station on the other. A little pedestrian exploration uncovers fine local art, crafts and jewelry, as well as fun lawn art at the Local Color Gallery.

Leaving Chama behind, turn west onto U.S. 84 toward Pagosa Springs. Now, you're out on the flat floor of Chama Valley. Not far from town is the sign for the Continental Divide, announcing that rainwater falling here drains into the Pacific Ocean to the west, and the Atlantic to the east. You wonder how it's possible on a plain flatter than a pool table. You pour water on the spot, but it doesn't seem to know what to do.

As the road climbs out of the valley and into San Juan National Forest, the scenery goes from flat to 3-D. Vast tracts of forest and rugged mountains are part of the southern San Juans, where the state's last grizzly was killed in 1979-an area considered by many the wildest in Colorado. Numerous smaller roads lead to trailheads where you can get your fill of exercise and nature.

The biggest surprise of the trip is when you leave the quiet splendor of the mountains and come face-to-face with the brash, bold, sulfur-smelling Pagosa Springs. On one side of the San Juan River is a line of 1800s buildings filled with restaurants, bars, cafes and tourist shops-a modern-day version of a booming mining town. On the other side of the river is an attractive string of pools that cascade down to the water's edge. They're part of the town's famous hot springs.

According to the Ute, the springs weren't always there. Legend has it that a plague descended on the tribe. In desperation, a huge bonfire was built on the banks of the San Juan River. Everyone danced and prayed around the towering flames in hope that their voices would be carried skyward to the gods.

The next morning, when the people awoke, they found a boiling spring where the fire had been. They drank and bathed in the water and were cured. From that day forward the location became a sacred place of healing. Access to the springs was constantly disputed with the Navajo, who also claimed ownership. (The San Juan River was the accepted dividing line between the two tribes in this area.) In the late 1800s, the U.S. government took control of the springs and deeded parcels to private parties.

Reportedly, these are the world's largest and hottest natural mineral springs. Water temperature is about 144 degrees, so no one bathes directly in the springs. Today, two hot springs resorts offer indoor and outdoor pools, water of varying temperatures and overnight accommodations. The larger of the two is The Springs Resort & Spa, with 18 outdoor soaking pools terraced along the banks of the San Juan River. The other, The Spa at Pagosa Springs, is located on the opposite side of Hot Springs Boulevard, just south of U.S. 160. Between the two is the Pagosa Springs Visitor Center, which resides in a replica of a turn-of-the-century hot springs bathhouse.

As you sit in one of the hot springs pools and soak away the afternoon, you can't help but think that Colorado's not only blessed for having some of the best scenic byways in the country, it's also blessed for having some of the best back roads-that can even soothe your aching back!

Jeff Miller is a Denver-based freelance writer.