Colorado Explorer

By Linda DuVal

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Colorado’s little Switzerland

Ouray Hot Springs. © Matt Inden/Weaver.

Anyone who’s been to Europe will quickly see why Ouray, in southwestern Colorado, is called "Little Switzerland." Almost completely ringed by sharp peaks, only a single road makes the town accessible to modern travelers. The place is beautiful year round, whether in the full glory of fall foliage, icy peaks of winter or the wildflowers of spring and summer.

Ouray’s earliest inhabitants were the Ute tribe—the town is named after a famous Ute chief. The area was a hotbed of gold and silver mining in the 1870s and ‘80s, but never became a ski area and retains a small-town charm.

The star attraction? Hot springs. Visit the public Ouray Hot Springs Pool or soak in private pools and hot tubs at various local lodgings. They range from hot tubs at the comfortable, rustic Box Canyon Lodge to the more elaborate pool and caves of the elegant Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa & Lodge. Clothing-optional Orvis Hot Springs is just north of town.

There aren’t numerous restaurants, but you can count on several to be good. Back Street Bagel and Main Street Café are popular local hangouts, especially for breakfast. Bon Ton Restaurant has been serving fine Italian and other upscale cuisine for years. Another local favorite is The Bistro at Billy Goat Gruff’s, which serves brasserie-style food. And The Outlaw has been mentioned in the New York Times and National Geographic Traveler magazines. For extra-special occasions, try Tundra at the recently restored Beaumont Hotel.

Ouray is home to one of the best rock shops ever—the Columbine Mineral Shop. Fossils, geodes, polished and raw stones from all over the world can be found in this gem of a store. Also check out some great art galleries and Ouray Glassworks. Assuage your sweet tooth at Mouse’s Chocolates or the Ouray Candy Company.

Don’t miss the hike to Box Canyon Falls, a crashing waterfall that’s easier to feel (an icy spray) than see (it’s partly obscured by rocks). The city park charges $3 for admission, but it’s worth it. On the other side of town is the more visible, if distant, Cascade Falls.

There’s lots of hiking in the area, as well as four-wheeling. Or take a tour of the Bachelor-Syracuse Mine just outside of town, and visit what the Smithsonian called one of America’s best small-town museums, the Ouray County Museum. In winter, check out the ice climbing at Ouray Ice Park.

Every visitor with an ounce of courage should head south on U.S. Highway 550 and tackle the stunning road known as the Million Dollar Highway, over Red Mountain Pass, to Silverton. The drive will leave you speechless any time of year. Yes, it’s scary in spots, but take your time and obey the signs and you’ll be fine.
It just doesn’t get any prettier than this.

For more information on Ouray, call 800-228-1876 or visit www.ouraycolorado.com.

Statewide activities

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Garden of the Gods as a Colorado Springs city park. Take a free guided tour of its soaring red sandstone formations any day at 10 a.m. or 2 p.m. No reservations necessary. 719-219-0108.

Colorfest, Pagosa Springs. © Don Long.

Bright hot-air balloons will dot the sky over Pagosa Springs during Colorfest Weekend, Sept. 11–13. Other highlights include an art show, live music, food-and-wine festival and photography contest. 970-264-2360, 800-252-2204 or www.visitpagosasprings.com.

The Colorado Railroad Museum in Golden is always interesting, but kids will love Thomas the Tank Engine’s guest appearances on Sept. 12, 13, 19, 20, 26 and 27. It’s one of several special events planned for the museum’s 50th anniversary year. 303-279-4591, 800-365-6263 or www.coloradorailroadmuseum.org.

It’s the perfect time of year to hike in the Comanche National Grasslands in southeastern Colorado. Stop at the Iron Spring Historic Area, about 11 miles west of Timpas. This historic spot was a stagecoach stop on the old Santa Fe Trail. 719-846-7217 or www.santafetrailco.com.

Does a slice of apple pie sounds good? Get a free one at the annual Apple Day Festival in Penrose on October 3. Fresh, locally grown Granny Smith, Delicious and other varieties are available, as well as apple cider, apple butter, pies and more. It’s also the town’s 100th birthday this year. 719-372-3994.

If you’re looking for a stunning fall color drive, it doesn’t get much better than the Grand Mesa Scenic Drive from Grand Junction to Delta. Aspens and cottonwoods provide a showy display of gold and scarlet. Call first if you want to find out when the colors are turning. 800-962-2547.

Statewide dining

You see it at fairs and other summer gatherings—hot, chewy and addictive. It’s Indian fry bread, and nobody does it better than Tocabe, one of Denver’s hottest new eateries and the only one run by a Native American. Whether you want it served as an Indian taco, a pizza or dessert, they’ll fix you right up. 720-524-8282.

Next time you take in a CSU football game in Fort Collins, stop by the Sonny Lubick Steakhouse downtown. Named for a former Rams football coach, it’s more an adult hangout than a student one. Locals recommend the prime rib nachos for an appetizer that can serve as a meal. 970-484-9200.

Statewide lodging

Fall is the perfect time to fire up the RV or pack a tent and check out Colorado’s newest getaway, Cutty’s Resort Hayden Creek, near Coaldale, located between Cañon City and Salida. They offer swimming, tennis, horseback riding and hiking on-site and can arrange raft trips on the Arkansas River. Cabins are also available. 719-942-4222.

Scare up some fun this Halloween at the Willow Tree Country Inn in Bennett, just east of Denver. Fall events include "A Taste for Wine and Mystery," a wine-tasting and gourmet dinner party with murder on the menu. It happens October 24 and 31. While you’re there, be sure to get your complimentary hydrotherapy foot massage. 800-257-1241 or 303-644-3801.

Statewide shopping

Want to shop where the jet set shops? Check out Italian winter fashion icon Moncler in Aspen. From technically constructed outerwear to après-ski designs, Moncler will dress you in high style for the slopes. 970-544-5558.

Looking for Colorado-style home accessories? Look no farther than Tweeds in Woodland Park, west of Colorado Springs. You can find everything from hand-carved fireplace mantels to coffee tables crafted from wood recycled from old barns, all made by Colorado artisans. 719-687-7373.

Linda DuVal is a freelance writer and former travel editor for The Gazette in Colorado Springs.

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