MINI TOUR: Snapshots of Crested Butte and Gunnison

By Tim Johnson

Ski time
The painter
A valley drive
Gunnison’s attraction
Mountain Bike Hall of Fame
Where to eat

Hartman Rocks, Gunnison.
© Xavier Fane.

The siren’s blare snapped me out of my daze and back to full attention.

I hadn’t run a stoplight or sped past a police car. I was cross-country skiing at the Crested Butte Nordic Center (CBNC), in hopes of giving my legs some relief from a day-and-a-half of downhilling at Mt. Crested Butte. The trail I was on gave me a panoramic view of town, and I expected a flurry of emergency vehicles gassing it toward some calamity.

None appeared. The traffic through town continued at its 15-mph posted speed.

A glance at my watch finally clued me in: it was the Noon Whistle. I never found out if this was a holdover from the past, signaling lunch for shift workers, or a modern test of the town’s emergency preparedness. It was just one of many subtle moments that I experienced and enjoyed in Crested Butte and Gunnison.

Shaun Horne has spent six years painting outdoors in Crested Butte. © Tim Johnson.

Ski time

As I snowplowed to a stop at the Nordic Center, the air was filled with the unmistakable sound of elementary students. Lots of them. They were flooding off yellow buses from Gunnison, ready to hone their cross-country ski skills as part of their PE class, offered pro bono to local schools by the CBNC.

The CBNC grooms about 30 miles of track, and hosts regular race series through the season. But don’t think everyone takes the racing stuff too seriously. Though the annual Alley Loop draws in competitive athletes, a larger contingent comes for a good time — as if their costumes won’t convey that perspective. The downtown event’s 24th running is February 6, 2010; race-day registration will be available.

A couple of thousand feet higher and five miles away is Mt. Crested Butte, the mountain and moniker of the lift-served ski area. From town, the mountain towers over the valley, but you don’t see the breadth of the ski area until you’re on the lifts.

The Paradise Express carries you over both the Terrain Park and the Super Pipe, and delivers you to Paradise Bowl. Choices from there expand, with an option to jump on the North Face Lift (which serves a range of double-diamond runs) or three blue runs that funnel back to the lift you just rode up. Factor in a mid-week visit for ridiculously short lift line waits, and you’ll get a refresher course in what lactic acid can do to a range of muscles. This is not a complaint by any means.

Shaun Horne has spent six years painting outdoors in Crested Butte.
© Tim Johnson.

The painter

Driving to the ski area, I noticed someone just off the road, paintbrush in hand, in front of an easel pushed into the snow.

The man I was about to meet, standing against a steady wind that bounced mid-sized gravel across the road, was wearing a paint-smeared snowmobile suit and was engrossed in his work despite the regular stream of passing cars.

Shaun Horne explained that he’s a practitioner of en plein air painting. The open air is his studio. Neither the chill nor the traffic could dull his passion for these landscape works.

Q: How long have you been painting?
Shaun Horne: 20 years.
Q: How long have you been painting outside in the winter?
SH: Ah ... 20 years.
Q: How long have you lived here in the valley?
SH: Only six years. This is my third time moving here to be a painter. I failed the first two times, but I pulled it off this time.
Q: What’s the attraction of Crested Butte?
SH: It’s the prettiest place I could find in the 48 states. I checked out all the other ski towns and this is my favorite in Colorado. You can see a lot of mountain ranges around Crested Butte — a lot of other ones are sort of socked in. It’s also got teeth though, you know. It’s intense. It takes some getting used to.

You can view his work at www.shaunhorne.com.

A valley drive

The 28-mile downhill cruise from Crested Butte and Gunnison provides a glimpse of the region’s ranching heritage and the raw beauty of the landscape. As the road drops, stands of aspens gradually give way to large cottonwoods along the valley floor. The Highway 135 route is never far from water, first shadowing the East River and then, at the confluence in Almont where the Taylor River flows in, the Gunnison is born.

Though second homes are a part of the landscape, working ranches still flourish. Horses preen, then bolt in their corral — spooked by the wind, a car or simply a sudden need for speed. Huge bales of hay, as heavy as a ’60s VW Bug, stand protected under pole barns. The pasture is covered with snow and the only color is the green stripe where the hay has been unrolled and hoof prints track the food.

Animals and the river are not the only movement in the just-above-freezing temps. A solo road biker is pedaling toward Gunnison with a steady cadence, dressed in neoprene booties, tights, gloves and helmet. Then, on the outskirts of town, there are two groups of runners: the women and men’s cross-country teams from Western State College.

More friendly locals

Gunnison’s attraction

With its 2,400-student population, the college adds to the town’s vitality, according to long-time resident and Western State alum Dave Wiens. “When you have a college in a small town, it makes the fabric of the community really strong,” he said.

Wiens’ recent athletic fame has come from his domination of the Leadville 100 mountain bike race (where he defeated Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong in 2008), although his national and international racing results are spectacular. After traveling the globe as a competitor, why is Gunnison home?

“It’s the outdoor activities that are available,” he said. “Gunnison is surrounded by Bureau of Land Management lands, and they’re unique areas. There was a time when the BLM lands were considered everything that Forest Service didn’t want. But people are finding out that there’s fantastic mountain biking on the BLM.

“Hartman Rocks are right next to Gunnison. It is a fantastic place to ride, and I’ve been riding there for 20 years and still not tired of it. These are out your backdoor, early morning rides, our everyday trails for this community.”

Wiens noted that cross-country skiing in Gunnison isn’t a sure thing every season, but when the snow comes the Nordic club sets track at Hartman Rocks (on the southern side of town) and at VanTuyl Ranch (just north of the city).

“When they have enough snow, it’s amazing at Hartman Rocks. With the high desert and sage brush, and granite rock formations, people say it’s like cross-country skiing in Moab,” he said. “And Gunnison itself is just a great little town.”

Mountain Bike Hall of Fame

Mountain Bike Hall of Fame

Winter or summer, you’ll see fat-tire bikes throughout Crested Butte. If you’re not anxious to tackle the snow-covered trails on two wheels, the next best thing is visiting the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame. Though California claims bragging rights for launching the off-road balloon-tire adventures, Colorado certainly played a role in growing the sport’s popularity.

Outside the museum, you’ll likely see sweet retro rides like this. Actually, they seem to be everywhere around the town.

The museum traces the advances of bike technology and the people who pioneered the sport — and then took it to new levels.

Admission is $3, and winter hours are from noon to 6 p.m. daily. For additional details, call the Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum at 970-349-1880 or see www.mtnbikehalloffame.com. Note the museum has off-season closures (April, May, October and November).

All Sports Replay

Another plus for downtown Gunnison is All Sports Replay, where you can find both new and used sports gear. The shop has been in business for 23 years, and handles hockey equipment (a sport that’s booming up and down the valley), plus skiing, camping, paddling, car racks and paintball gear. Sports junkies — both buyers and sellers — rejoice. 115 W. Georgia Ave, Gunnison, 81230; 970-641-1893.

Taylor Reservoir

Addictions to Colorado’s outdoors come in a variety of devotions, and fishing fits this category perfectly. You’ll find outfitters in Crested Butte, Almont and Gunnison, though you should call ahead, since some may guide skiers this time of year.

One spot where you’ll find open water is at the tail waters of the Taylor Reservoir. The 22-mile drive from Almont to the reservoir is through a narrow canyon that doesn’t get much winter sun, so be prepared for cautious driving and bring extra clothes in case you get caught in a storm.

The pay-off for all this? Nearly a half-mile of open water, teeming with good-sized fish that haven’t seen many humans since the elk hunters headed home. Numerous fly shops in Gunnison, Almont or Crested Butte can steer you toward the right flies for the tail waters.

Tim Johnson is editor of EnCompass magazine.

Where to eat

Camp 4 Coffee: Four locations that serve coffee and pastries that’ll make you happy you rolled out of bed. 402 1/2 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte, 970-349-2500.
Django’s: This cozy ski-hill side restaurant is just a short walk from either the base of the hill or from the Transportation Center (the terminus for free bus service between Mt. Crested Butte and Crested Butte). The small-plate servings make sharing easy. Dishes (which can change during the season) include Peruvian piquillo peppers stuffed with creamy mascarpone, gorgonzola, lemon zest and herb salt; or grilled pomegranate shrimp, Moroccan couscous, dates and pomegranate seeds. Dinner plates range from $5 to $18, weekend brunch $3-$9 and après ski $4-$7. Mountaineer Square Courtyard, Mt. Crested Butte, 970-349-7574.
Lil’s Sushi Bar and Grill: Fresh fish is flown in six days a week. 321 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte, 970-349-5457.
Sugah’s: A fine mix of Southern fare with Western highlights. The scent of the Smoked Chicken Barbeque Sammich will make you hungry even before you take three steps through the door. Lunches $9-$15, dinner entrees $15-$25. 206 North Main Street, Gunnison, 970-641-4990.
Sunflower: If the ham, caramelized onions and truffle-oil panini is available, snap it up. 214 Elk Avenue, Crested Butte, 970-349-6866.

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