Travel Talk

Colorado’s One Diamond GEMs
Agri-tourism: It grows on you
Old Town Museum, Burlington

Little Anita’s fresh, hot sopapillas with honey,
© AAA Colorado/Keith Kaiser

Colorado’s One Diamond GEMs
By AAA Inspector 70

It’s inevitable. I’ll meet someone for the first time and when they find out what I do, they ask about the rating of their favorite restaurant. When I tell them it’s a Two or Three Diamond, a severe look of disappointment crosses their faces as they quietly mutter, “But, I love that place.”

Similarly, after raving to everyone I know about my first experience at a quick-serve burger joint, I get the unavoidable question, “What did you rate it?” When I explain that it’s a One Diamond, the person I’m speaking with looks confused and says, “But, I thought you liked it.”

It’s hard not to get frustrated with these misunderstandings, but I know it’s not their fault. I blame movie ratings and the innocuous “star rating” which has led Americans to associate one with “don’t go” and five with “must see” or, in this case, eat. AAA ratings don’t work that way.

The AAA Diamond rating system describes a certain type of dining experience. A One Diamond restaurant typically indicates a casual, fast-food place, while a Five Diamond is a more formal, fine-dining establishment. (look for a full description in any AAA TourBook). Our aim as inspectors is to list the best options for our members in any given town and help them choose a restaurant fitting their needs. Are you looking for a fast meal on the go, a casual sit down place, or something fancy to celebrate a special occasion?

My point is, just because a restaurant is a One, doesn’t mean it’s bad. Colorado is lucky to have a wealth of high-quality restaurants that are changing the definition of fast food.

Here are a few of my favorite One Diamond restaurants. Although they represent a wide range of cuisines, these restaurants all feature limited menu options, high-quality ingredients, and, most importantly, great flavors. Hopefully, your experiences dining at these One Diamond GEMs will prove me right— One Diamonds can be awesome!


Tocabe Restaurant, © Tocabe

Tocabe
3536 W. 44th Ave., Denver

The owners of Tocabe, Ben Jacobs and Matt Chandra, use family recipes to create popular dishes normally found only on or around American Indian reservations. Their modified fry bread recipe replaces lard with a corn & canola oil blend and uses a flash-fry technique instead of deep-frying. I don’t know what magic they put in the fry bread, but it’s delicious.

Most of my experience with American Indian food comes from my travels throughout the Southwest and Minnesota. I had the opportunity to sample a variety of fry bread, which is probably the most well-known American Indian innovation. Fry bread can be controversial in tribal circles, but that discussion is beyond the scope of this article.

For those who haven’t tried it, there is something immensely satisfying about fry bread. The puffy, chewy texture achieved by careful dough making combined with the crispiness achieved from frying in lard or vegetable oil creates a mouthful of heaven. Tocabe’s is the best fry bread I’ve ever tasted. It has the perfect texture—thick and puffy with just enough crispness and a slight hint of sweetness.

The fry bread creates the perfect base for Tocabe’s taco toppings, which include High Plains bison, ground beef, chicken, beans, and vegetables. Patrons choose their own toppings in an assembly line similar to popular quick serve burrito restaurants. The decor combines American Indian symbolism (i.e. walls decorated with human hand prints) with modern design. A small area is reserved for Native American community news.

Larkburger
105 Edwards Village Blvd., Edwards

At a time when many fast-food chains appeal to a more health-conscious diner or attach themselves to the gourmet coffee trend, Larkburger proves true innovation equals business success. Created by Chef Thomas Salamunovich, the Larkburger was a feature at his fine dining restaurant, Larkspur, in Vail. The burger reached such a high level of popularity that he decided to create a fast food restaurant around it.

Not only do the beef and turkey burgers taste phenomenal, but they are made with all-natural ingredients. In fact, all of the food served at this restaurant is all-natural—no additives or preservatives. My favorite meal is a Little Lark, beef or turkey depending on the day, Parmesan truffle fries, and a chocolate shake. I have yet to try the tuna burger or the vegetarian burger, but the salad tamari-ginger dressing earns high marks.

The modern, eco-friendly décor proves “green” doesn’t have to be ugly. Bio-degradable utensils, cups, and burger cartons means Larkburger is easy on the environment and on your conscience. Locations can also be found in Boulder, Fort Collins and Greenwood Village.

Little Anita’s
1550 S. Colorado Blvd., Denver

When I first began working for AAA, I covered part of Northern New Mexico, including Santa Fe. I grew to love green chile sauce. Most people in Colorado think they know green chile, but they’re usually wrong. If you think green chile is a red sauce with diced green chiles in it, then you’ve been Tex-Mexed! First of all, New Mexican green chile sauce is actually green. When you order sauce in New Mexico, servers ask if you want red or green. Christmas (a little of both) is an acceptable response. Spiciness varies for both sauces, but something about green chile makes me incredibly euphoric. Anyway, it’s difficult to find this tantalizing salsa verde in Colorado.

When I first pulled into the non-descript strip mall housing Little Anita’s, I wasn’t impressed. In fact, I was a little worried about what I would find in the tiny restaurant wedged between a kickboxing studio and a sub shop. What I found was a true GEM. The cramped space was pleasantly decorated to resemble something typically seen in Santa Fe, complete with ristras and faux adobe walls.

I placed my order, still unsure of what I would find on my plate. Then, I read the restaurant’s history on their take-away menus and knew I was in for a treat. The owners of Little Anita’s base their recipes on New Mexican favorites passed down through generations of their family. It shows. I highly recommend the chile rellenos—you will not find a barely palatable relleno from a box or some weirdness tucked in an eggroll wrapper. In fact, this is one of the few restaurants where I will confidently order a relleno without a second thought. Actually, I never limit myself to a relleno … I usually get a combination plate with an enchilada, a relleno and a tamale. Every entrée comes with a sopapilla and honey. Little Anita’s has additional locations in Arvada, Broomfield, Centennial, and Westminster.

The Rib House by Chef Extraordinaire
1920 S. Coffman St., Longmont

Colorado isn’t known for BBQ. There’s a reason for this…it’s simply not part of our cultural culinary tradition. So, we have to import outsiders to fill this need. Luckily for us, Merry Ann and Tracy Webb immigrated to Longmont from Kansas City, Mo.

Most Coloradans who say they don’t like BBQ just haven’t been to the right spot. You need to search for the real deal and The Rib House is one of the few restaurants serving it. The ribs, pork or beef, fall off the bone. If you opt out of the ribs, you might be crazy, but there are plenty of other options to suit your fancy—turkey, pork, brisket, hot links, smoked ham, and spicy smoked sausage. The four homemade sauces range from mild to “fire” and are all fabulous. I like to mix them up… a little sweet and a little spicy. It’s hard to choose sides, but usually go for the red-skinned mashed potatoes, corn bread, and/or the baked beans. There is also a location in Boulder.

La Baguette French Bakery and Espresso Cafe
2417 W. Colorado Ave., Colorado Springs

I have to admit, I’m not a huge fan of French cuisine, at least not the heavily cream sauced version found in some fancy restaurants. However, I’m all for the casual corner bistro style café a la La Baguette. There are four locations in Colorado Springs, but my favorite is in old Colorado City. The cozy little shop feels European and artsy.

The menu is more diverse than you would expect from a quick serve restaurant—pate, cheese fondue, salads, Harvest Squash Ravioli, crème brulee. I have to have two things when I go to La Baguette—French Onion soup, served in a little brown crock, and an almond croissant. I don’t even like onions, but the savory soup is made with a flavorful, fresh beef stock enhanced with a layer of browned gruyere—French Onion soup at its best. Some almond croissants are simply a croissant with almonds on top. At La Baguette, a generous portion of finely chopped almonds mixed in almond paste lies at the center. Magnifique!

The Market
1445 Larimer Square, Denver

This restaurant is the closest thing Denver has to a New York Deli. Part coffee shop, sandwich shop, and bakery, patrons either grab their meal to go or congregate with friends at the bistro-style tables. The sandwiches and pre-made salads are good, and the desserts heavenly. In high school, my best friend and I would drive in from the suburbs to share desserts at the Market. I’m happy to say, 16 years later, the desserts are still amazing.

It’s really hard to decide on one dessert. We usually went with something chocolate and something not. The fruit tart, German Chocolate cake, and Strawberry short cake are still my favorites…well, the éclairs are good, too…and the cherry Black Forest cake…and…it’s all good. Go there, eat dessert, have coffee, be happy.


Betsy Harrison, owner of Crabapple Tree Farm, with Bob, the Churro Sheep Ram, © Barbara Grist.

Agri-tourism: It grows on you
By Linda DuVal

How many of us have held a fresh, warm egg? Pulled a beet, carrot or potato from the soil? Plucked juicy raspberries from the bush?

Families looking to educate their children about the real world could find no better venue than the Great Sage Plain region of Colorado, the southwestern corner of the state known for its ancient ruins—lovingly preserved at Mesa Verde National Park, Hovenweep National Monument and the Anasazi Heritage Center. But once you’ve done those, think about seeing a flock of Churro sheep, brought back from the edge of extinction. Stop by an alpaca farm, or live on a farm or ranch for a week.

Lynn Dyer, tourism director for Mesa Verde Country, offers visitors a brochure for finding yaks and cattle, daylilies and produce. “These aren’t your typical tourist attractions,” Dyer says. “They’re not going to drive cattle from one pasture to another for your entertainment, but if you get lucky and that’s what they’re doing, you can join in.”

Barbara Headley, who lives near Cortez, recently took her teen-aged grandkids from Michigan on a day’s horseback ride at the East Pines Ranch. “This was no nose-to-tail trail ride,” she says. “It was awesome! They still talk about it.”

Karsten and Annett Staudt of Germany visited Canyon of the Ancients Ranch with their two little boys (ages 2 and 3). “There was lots of freedom for the boys that they don’t get in hotels and restaurants,” he said. “And they loved the animals.”

At Shadow Ranch Alpacas, a herd of the dainty, llama-like creatures dash over to the fence with curious eyes, checking out the visitors. They wheel away when you enter their pen, but come back and eat out of your hand when they see you have some of their favorite feed.

Lynda Maul, who owns the ranch with her husband, got interested in fiber arts when she visited a fair. She started with angora rabbits and goats. But alpacas are way less trouble, she says. She sells the fiber and alpaca woven goods at the Shadow Ranch Fiber Hut in nearby Cortez. www.shadowranchalpacas.com.

Betsy Harrison retired from the business world in San Diego to live on her Crabapple Tree Farm near Mancos. She fell in love with the Navajo breed of Churro sheep (descendants of those left behind by early Spanish visitors), discovered they were becoming extinct, and started raising them. She now sells the wool primarily to Navajo weavers who use it to make their signature rugs. She also sells lamb to local restaurants. 970-739-1172.

Garry and Ming Adams of Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch grow enough vegetables on one-and-one-half acres to feed the residents and guests of the ranch and bring lots of leftover for the Cortez Farmer’s Market. They also raise chickens and cattle. Visitors and guests can pick their own produce and buy fresh, free-range eggs. Visitors also can arrange a petroglyph tour of some ancient findings on the ranch. There are three refurbished houses available for overnight guests. www.canyonoftheancients.com.

The Heaton family runs the East Pines Ranch near Dove Creek. The accommodations are rustic (a tiny unheated hut or tents, and an outhouse), and guest wranglers mend fences one day, drive cattle the next. LaVonne Heaton serves up three hearty ranch-style meals daily. www.eastpines.com.

If you’re visiting during the summer growing season, don’t miss the flowers and produce at farmer’s markets in Cortez, Mancos or Dolores. In the fall, hit the local apple orchards, where you can pick your own fruit. Some folks swear the McElmo Canyon peaches are the best in the world.

You’ll also find baked goods, fresh-roasted coffee, locally raised honey, plants for sale, herbs in pots, gourd art, handmade aprons, and get a little live music in the bargain. But to see where all this comes from, visit www.mesaverdecountry.com and plan your trip.

Linda DuVal is a freelance writer in Colorado Springs.

Colorado GEM: Old Town Museum, Burlington

Nestled in the heart of Colorado’s Central Plains, near the Colorado/Kansas border, is a historic site that celebrates the local agriculture, history and heritage. Situated on 6.5 acres, the Old Town Museum has a collection of original and re-created buildings furnished with early 1900s artifacts. The 21 buildings include a schoolhouse, church, sod house, windmill, grocery store, jail, salon, drugstore, soda fountain, Texaco station, blacksmith shop and of course, a museum.

During the summer, Belgian horses pull the Old Town Express to the Kit Carson County Carousel, and cancan dancers perform in the saloon. Children can learn first-hand about pioneer life on the Colorado prairie. And shoppers will revel in the Old Town Emporium—nearly 2,000 square feet of hand-crafted collectibles, gifts, keepsakes and souvenirs. For information on the Old Town Museum visit www.burlingtoncolo.com/.

This is one of the Colorado GEMs listed in the AAA TourBook. GEMs are Great Experiences for Members—top picks for things to do or see in the state. Get the 2011 edition free at branch office, or at www.AAA.com/travel.

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